Hear that sound? The British Columbia town of Whistler was named in 1965 for the whistling call made by marmots, but these days the resort town itself makes a bigger ruckus. There's the whir of gondolas climbing one of the biggest ski areas in North America, and the din of après ski party crowds; here the nightlife doesn't even wait until night.
Located less than two hours north of Vancouver, this is a town where sports and luxury crash together to form the West Coast's poshest resort. Here's the best of a busy ski destination.
Where to Eat
Fine dining is hardly new to Whistler—old-school Rimrock Cafe has been serving oysters Rockefeller since the 1980s—but in 2022 a trio of Vancouver and Whistler restaurateurs leaned into something more theatrical. Here the bartender may pile shiso pearls at the base of a drink, or the chef may set the lingcod in a glossy vadouvan curry. With so many vacationers to treat, dining rooms tend to go big for such a modest town; this one is among the most lively of the high-end spots.
Creekside, the original resort area of Whistler, is quiet only compared to the main village a few kilometers away. Here in one of the older buildings in town, the titular red door sits across the hall from a dive bar and next to a cash machine wedged in the corner. Reservations are hard to come by for a reason, with the open kitchen producing pitch-perfect versions of straightforward classics like gnudi and short ribs. Most diners have to contort themselves to read the night's menu from blackboards on the wall, but it's worth the lean.
Tiny Barn Nork sees long waits for its Thai flavors.
Saying this Thai restaurant is next to Whistler's campground makes it sound more low-key than it is (mostly because nothing's all that rustic in the whole town). But it is small, with room for just five tables, so most diners show up for takeout. Curry dishes deliver some of the best (and most) flavor in town, and the ice cream is homemade daily. Expect a wait, even if you think to order early.
Another Creekside classic, this time for breakfast. Though it doesn't exactly hail from Whistler's earliest days—the beloved deli was revived as a diner in the early 2000s—it leans hard into lowbrow fun. Dishes may be described as “big ass” or the BLT upgrade “BELTCH.” This is grease that can fire up a big ski day or launch recovery after a big night out.
Whistler's Bearfoot Bistro Ice Room is here for a cold time.
It's more a singular experience than a culinary one, but this small ice-walled tasting room does deliver a ridiculousness that fits a luxe resort. No seats, and no cocktails: The Grey Goose–branded Ice Room includes the loan of a heavy parka and four shots of vodka (all for about $39 USD). The temperature is a crisp -25 degrees Fahrenheit. You don't have to be a particularly big vodka fan to appreciate the difference between a grain-based Ukrainian version and a rice-made Japanese drink, but don't plan to drive after this flight.
Another longtime favorite that dates back to the 1980s, when the Whistler we know today was quickly rising from the forest and a mellow collection of mountain lodges. The menu is broader than just sushi—teriyaki bowls, udon, karaage, and more are available—but rolls are one of the area's better deals.
Flute and Fromage makes a meal out of cheese, much of it from Europe.
This small village storefront is mostly a shop, stocked with fragrant French and BC cheeses to be brought back to a condo table for private après. But a few patio tables out front have the kind of people-watching you'd find at the town's giant bars—but much, much less hectic. The fondue is serviceable, but a gooey tartiflette is made of soft French cheese and potatoes; the drink menu includes natural wines.
Despite sitting a few feet from Whistler Blackcomb, this pizza joint dares to salute another sport: bike riding. (The ski area becomes a bike park in summer.) The pizza slices have too much cornmeal to be quite as “New York” style as the menu promises, but the toppings are cooked to a perfect crisp. Add spicy honey (or ranch if you must) to any slice, and choose from a short list of local draft beers.
Après ski parties start at Dubh Linn Gate around lunchtime every day.
There are many bars around Whistler Blackcomb's ski base where the pop music is loud, the buckets are full of bottled beer, and fun is nonstop. The Dubh Linn is that plus a little more, like live music performances and wood panels to make the interior feel less cavernous. There are dozens of beers on tap, not to mention even more whiskies, but this is a place for Guinness.
In Japan, the lines for the flagship Arabica coffee shop can circle the block of its sleepy Kyoto neighborhood. As the chain spread around the world, it became less of a sensation and more of a reliably good cup. The igloo shape of the Village coffee shop is a little goofy (and getting a bit marked up after less than two years here), but the single-minded nature of the shop means you can enjoy coffee on an interior bench without battling diners ordering larger meals. Don't skip the baked goods.
What to Do
At Whistler Blackcomb, the ski might seem large, but the mountains in the backdrop are even bigger.
Ski and Snowboard
Five gondolas. More than a dozen express chairs. Bowls, glades, steeps, magic carpets, and a groomer that runs 11 kilometers long. The massive ski resort known as Whistler Blackcomb is owned by Vail Resorts and is the reason why there are luxury hotels and three-tier oyster platters in this corner of Canada. There are slopes for every kind of skier here, and lines on most weekends. Pro tips: The First Tracks ($26) early access program is worthwhile once a trip, but most of the terrain open in the early morning is moderate. Daily free on-snow tours are helpful for first-timer intermediate skiers to get their bearings. And finally, Washington residents get special pricing on Edge Cards for discounted lift tickets when purchased preseason—and some include partial use at Stevens Pass Ski Area.
Biathlon at Whistler Olympic Park, where you just might deserve a gold medal.
Olympic Sports
It's been more than 15 years since the Olympics came to Vancouver, BC, and Whistler, but various reminders and structures remain, including the bobsled track. The Whistler Sliding Centre hosts competitions and training, but more delightedly takes beginners on an actual ride in a bobsled (piloted by you or an experienced athlete) or on a skeleton sled. At Whistler Olympic Park, the cross-country course is open for flat skiing or, in a lesson setting, biathlon shooting.
At the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre, interpreters lead tours of the galleries of First Nations art.
Museums
Though a visit to Squamish Lil'wat Cultural Centre begins with a film describing the Indigenous history of the area, the true introduction is in taking in the light-filled space filled with carved house posts and carving poles, handmade canoes, and Indigenous clothing. Rotating exhibits highlight aspects of First Nations culture. Nearby, the Audain Art Museum is as shady as its neighbor is bright, an atmospheric building tucked into the tall trees, clever angles used to distance the galleries from the ski area parking lots just adjacent. Collections focus on British Columbia art in the last couple centuries, including works by Emily Carr.
These skis need gasoline: snowmobiling in the mountains around Whistler.
Snowmobiling
Zooming around the forest on a snowtop motorcycle (or maybe think of it as a landbound Jet Ski?) has become increasingly popular around Whistler; beginner-friendly versions stick to groomed paths and low speeds. Trips in the Callaghan Valley just south of Whistler feel like more of an escape than versions that head up the ski hill after dark; Blackcomb Snowmobile's version heads to a forest hut where dinner is served. It's an impressively tasty meal, always served without wine since everyone has to brrrrrrp home after.
Part of a chain that has locations across Canada, this spa takes the Scandinavian tradition of soaking and sauna-going and turns it into a posh, picturesque experience. At Whistler, a day pass ($95–135 in winter) allows access across the property full of pools and warm rooms, with a charge for a reserved spot. Don't plan on chatting; talking and phone use is prohibited, though there is a café with snacks that serves as a good break in all the meditation.
Where to stay
The granddaddy of fancy mountain hotels has been around for more than two decades but manages something few other big properties can—it's quiet and out of the way. It's located at the base of Blackcomb mountain, which has its own, smaller base with lighter crowds (well, slightly). A barrel sauna and a champagne-forward bar abut the pool. This is where to go when all the lottery winnings roll in.
At Pangea Pod Hotel, the hostel experience got an upgrade.
At this hostel, beds aren't particularly cheap (though even at over $200 per night in peak season, they're a bargain in Whistler). But these double mattresses aren't quite the creaky bunk bed version, either. The 88 pods are best used by vacationers focused on skiing, partying, or both, and there are several public areas for hanging out. The hotel doesn't allow pets or children, and not everyone can stomach the semi-private situation—but it's a big step above most hostels, and walkable to most of town.
Pan Pacific Whistler Village Centre, one of two related properties, is in the fray.
Pan Pacific Whistler
At the center of the village since the 1990s, this hotel is an institution for being next door (or above) just about everything. Now two buildings a few blocks apart, all guests benefit from private ski lockers right at the main gondola base. The more interior of the properties, Village Centre, is often plagued by elevator repairs but has a stellar cocktail bar on the ground floor, the Raven Room.
Vacation Rentals
Though hotels abound across the tightly packed Whistler, Creekside, and Blackcomb base areas, this is a town where Airbnb and Vrbo shine. Seemingly endless clusters of condos, townhouses, and even private homes offer rentals, often with access to resort-like pools and hot tubs. Ski-in, ski-out (or just walk-in and walk-out) proximity is convenient, but more space can be found at properties served by free shuttle buses. A tip: Read parking notes carefully; there are no free overnight parking spots in greater Whistler.